The Deer Buffet

I’m often asked, “What can I do about keeping the deer away from my garden?” Nothing is more upsetting to the gardener or landscaper than to spend days designing and planting a beautiful garden or landscape, only to have it eaten by deer.

My short answer is: “Using plants that deer don’t like in the landscape may prove to be the most effective and economical way to deter deer. Good planning and a little patience will help deer-proof your landscape and garden. The most logical method of creating the deer-proof garden is to mimic nature.”

Gaillardia Mesa Yellow- many fuzzy leaf plants are unappetizing to deer.

Deer will avoid all of the varieties of Antirrhinum majus – shown Snapdragon ‘Twinny Peach’

Mixed flower bed can contain a few plants that deer may browse but they will avoid them when surrounded by untasty blooms.

The Deer Facts by Kathy Lillywhite

Gardening in deer country is not impossible but there are some things one should know. The mule deer (Odocoileus heinous) with their large fuzzy ears and bright dark eyes, need 5 to 10 pounds of food per day. One of the worst damaging thing they do to the garden is called browsing.

The next worst thing is rutting. This is when a buck uses his antlers to rub the bark off your favorite newly planted tree.

We will discuss deer browsing first.

Browsing is a pattern of feeding in which the deer, bucks, does and fawns (the little spotted cute ones) select tender shoots, blossoms, twigs, leaves off plants, trees and shrubs. Their taste can change and browsing your garden depends primarily on the season, the deer’s nutritional needs and abundance or lack of abundance of their favorite foods. When preferred foods are scarce, deer will eat just about anything.

There are various ways to protect a garden from deer browsing but most are temporary. 

This beautiful flower bed has an assortment of flowers that deer don’t like so Mariam can keep it beautiful and the deer just walk by.

1. Chemical and organic repellents, homemade or purchased that have varying degrees of effectiveness. Most are odorous with the use of rotten egg smell that deer don’t like but raccoons love. I’ve tried most of them and the stinkier (sic) the better. “Liquid Fence”, “Shake-Away”,(powdered coyote urine). I’ve even made the haul to Hogle zoo and lugged a gunny sack of stinky mountain lion dung back home. (I told you I’ve tried everything!) Some of these repellents claim you can go 3 or 4 weeks between applications.

Hide the tasty ones among the less savory. Pictured tall sweet Phlox

Other repellents are based on a very bad taste they call bitrex. “Repelex” comes in spray-on variety as well as tablets that can be planted with your shrubs or plants. The taste remains in the soil for years—you can taste “bitter” as you dig around. I have had the most success with using the pellets and spray-on combined. One year (‘m gloating now) I actually had tulips blooming, right out along the street. Repelex and other effective ones, such as “Deer Guard”, contain a latex-based spreader-sticker which stays on through many rain and irrigation dowses. All spray-on repellents must be re-applied to new growth. That means every few days or at least weekly. I have tried most of the spray-ons such as, ”Deer Out”, “Not Tonight Deer”, “Hinder” (This one is promoted to be ok for vegetables and fruit and inoffensive to humans! I don’t know about the taste of the fruit…you’ll have to ask the deer!),

There are various other remedies such as soap, human hair, loaded baby diapers, radios playing talk stations. Anything that suggests humans are present are not effective because the deer are not afraid of man, woman or child any more.

This garden has systemic repelex to keep deer off Blanche’s coleus.

2. There are various electronic sound devices and water-motion sensors, that may be costly (depends on how many plants they save and how many silk blouses they ruin) but can be effective. I have used the Scarecrow- battery powered, motion sensor, blasting the deer with water. The cost if you order on line has come down from $129 to $69.

I found that the Scarecrow repellent was good when all systems were in place. The unit has to be hooked up to a garden hose. Batteries must be fresh and the unit must be adjusted in the correct direction. If you forget that it’s on, you or your guests may get a good soaking. I got tired of getting “it” so I eventually just turned the water off and rolled up the garden hose.

There are other electronic devices that I have not tried. Some attract the deer with scents and then zaps them with electronic volts. (400v) which isn’t much but the manufacturers claim they work. “Herd” is one that runs on 2AA batteries that lasts 1 year. Sells for $69.95. There are others, “Scare Wars” and “Gardener Ultrasonic” that uses radio and computer technology and LP gas cannons. The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension issued a warning that ultrasonic sound waves that animals hear are the same as what humans hear…so beware that they may not be effective.

3. Physical barriers such as the seven foot high fence (along with a big dog!) provides the best means of protection. However, deer can squeeze through a small break and have been known to crawl under fences as well. Fences are not always the answer as they are highly visible and can detract from the aesthetic beauty of the property. They can also be the perfect solution.

I have also used fish line, bird netting, and various booby traps. Deer do not see well and things that get their feet tangled can frustrate them…somewhat. I had some rose bushes encircled with several metal edging pieces and one night I heard the worst commotion. A deer had gotten his hoof caught in the metal, fallen down and couldn’t get the metal piece off. After thrashing around, destroying my rose garden, I went to see if I could help. He leaped down the hill and the metal piece went flying.

I hate to admit but I’ve thrown knives, forks and serving pieces off the balcony trying to get them to go away, and once tried my son’s bow and arrow (couldn’t hit the broad side of a barn). And I’ve chased, yelled and screamed at them, they always return for Act II.

Also, feeding the deer, on the presumption that they’ll act mannerly and eat only what is put out for them does not work. They will browse all the way to the feed bin and back again! As well, deer can not read signs that say “for birds only”.

 

4. Plant plants that don’t attract the deer and they don’t particularly like. Again, if deer are hungry enough there isn’t much they won’t eat.

Using plants that deer don’t like in the landscape may prove to be the most effective and economical way to deter deer. Good planning and a little patience will help deer-proof your landscape and garden. The most logical method of creating the deer-proof garden is to mimic nature. Observe the native plants that deer leave alone and draw from that knowledge. Identify other members of that immune plant family and those plants will usually prove to be resistant as well. (Such as beard tongue growing in the wild belongs to the genus digitalis.) Toxicity is perhaps one of the most common reasons for deer to leave a particular plant alone. The Ranunculus is another good example of a plant that is poisonous to deer and other grazing animals.

Deer will avoid poisonous plants like foxglove and ranunculus

There are about 400 species of annuals and biennials that are listed as deer resistant. Some species that you’ll recognize are: buttercup, bachelor’s buttons, crowfoot and spearwort and the bulb spring flowering ranunculus. Daffodils and all of the narcissus family members are poisonous to deer as well. You will see many varieties of Black eyed Susans, growing in the wilds- untouched by deer. I’ve always enjoyed a stand or two of Rudbekia ‘Goldsturm’ in my garden, these are real work horses and are as cheerful as the sunflower.

Rudbekia ‘Golsturm’

The echinacea otherwise known as cone flower, has so many new varieties- they are fun and worry free. Try some of the new exotics. This beauty is fast becoming one of my favorite flowers.

 

Echinacea ‘Double Delight’

The next worse thing to browsing is deer rutting. A buck uses his antlers to rub the bark off the tree trunk. I lost a beautiful 4 year old magnolia tree to this rubbing. The tree could have survived the first rubbing but the buck came back to damage the other side! As we all know, young trees have very thin bark that offers no protection from such damage. The cambium (the bright green layer under the bark) is only a cell or two thick. The cambium provides the tree with a vascular system. A girdled tree often dies because it can’t transport water and nutrients.

A damaged tree from a rutting buck.

A buck loves to rub his antlers on young, flexible trees to remove the velvet that covers them. Not because the drying velvet is itchy; antlers have no nerve endings. Bucks rub their antlers on trees to attract receptive does and to demarcate territory warning other bucks to stay away. They also simulate battle with other bucks on these trees, perhaps to strengthen their neck muscles in preparation for the real thing.

Picture taken in my own garden a few weeks ago

It is possible that a buck will come back to rub on your tree again. It’s important to protect it. You should surround the tree with a 6 foot barrier that will keep a determined deer away from the tree trunk. This can be made of rebar and wire mesh. Or you can purchase from Tuscan Garden Works- two halves of an obelisk style trellis that will hook together. These are very attractive and can be re-used for trellising roses or other climbing plants when you remove them from the tree. Spray-on repellents are not effective in controlling buck rubs.

Just a note on treatment of a tree that has been damaged by a buck: Don’t put a wound dressing or paint on the tree. Trees are capable of healing a surprising amount of damage on their own. You may want to do something for your tree- even a Band-Aid. But the best thing will be to only cut the shaggy bark away and let the tree will heal it’s self.

After loosing my magnolia tree and realizing that a brazen buck had staked out my garden as his area…I was livid! That’s when I purchased three of the Scarecrow motion sensors for the back and side yard.

Deer are creatures of habit, once a new feeding area is found to be to their liking, future damage is easily predictable. Deer have learned to adapt to the changes we have imported to their environment. They have lost their fear of “man” and have adjusted their feeding schedule to avoid us and our dogs.

Zinnia ‘zahara starlight’ one of the fuzzy flowers which deer resist.

Ornamental grasses and sedums are not favorites on the deer buffet.

Aromatic foliage is more often than not shunned by deer. Some plants that have pungent aromas are: basils, lavenders, thymes and yarrows (Achillea), monarda (bee balm), and artemisia. But If you classify the geranium and pelargonium as “smelly” plants, deer like them.

Fuzzy and prickly foliage is generally disagreeable to deer, unless they are very hungry. Lambs ear(Stachys byzantina), Rose Campion, Rudbeckia, Echinacea, and verbascum, hollies, barberry, Oregon grape and pines are examples of plants with fuzz and prickles that deer seem to leave along, unless very hungry. The new growth on roses is very succulent and deer love the buds and flowers but generally leave the old thorny stems alone.

I love the Zinnia. Deer don’t!

The following lists include plants that the deer generally leave alone. Sometimes they browse on these plants in winter or early spring but by mid-summer you can count on them to not be preferred as deer “buffet”.

Trees

Mature trees can withstand deer browsing, as it affects only the lower leaves and branches, but young trees and sapling are more accessible and easily harmed. Deer lack upper front incisor teeth, so they must rip branches off, leaving very ragged edges. They reach branches as high as six feet by standing on their hind legs. Cages can be constructed around individual trees and shrubs using chicken wire and rebar or have something beautiful custom made by Tuscan Garden Works!

 

Deer Resistant Trees: American Holly (Ilex opaca) American Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua) Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica) Birch, (Betula papyrifera, pendula) Bitternut Hickory (Carya cordiformis) Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacia) Chinese Chestnut (Castanea mollissima) Colorado Spruce (Picea pungens) Common Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) Corkscrew Willow (Salix matsudana) Dogwood (Cornus kousa) European Hornbeam, (Carpinus betulus) Golden Chain Tree (Laburnum anagroides Green Ash (Fraxiunus pennsylvanica) Hawthorn (Crataegus) Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtuse) Magnolia (magnolia) Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba) Northern Catalpa (Catalpa speciosa) Norway Spruce (Picea abies) Pine, Pitch, Mugo, Red, Scots (Pinus) Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum) Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)

Deer Resistant Shrubs: Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) Bush cherry (Prunus avium) Bush Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa) Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii) Cotoneaster (catoneaster horizontalis) Deciduous Azaleas (Rhododendrom spp.) Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea) Forsythia (forsythia) Holly (Ilex aquifolium) Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii) Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) Oregon Grape Holly (Mahonia aquifolium) Russian-Olive (Eleagnus angustifolia) Spirea (Spiraea) Viburnum (Viburnum) Weigela (Weigela florida) Witchhazel (Hamamelis)

Deer Resistant Perennials: Adam’s Needle (Yucca filamentosa) Alyssum (Alyssum) Aster (aster) Astilbe (Astilbe) Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila) Basket of Gold (Aurinia saxatilis) Beebalm (Monarda didyma) Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia maxima) Campion (Lychnis coronaria) Catnip (Nepeta) Columbine (Aquilegia) Common Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) Coreopsis (Coreopsis) Dame’s Rocket (Hesperis) False Indigo (Baptisia) Boltonia (Boltonia) Dusty Miller (Centaurea cineraria) False Lupin (Thermopsis) Flax (Linum) Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia) Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis) Foxglove (Digitalis) Gaillardia (gaillardia) Goldenrod (Solidago hybrids) Hellebore (Helleborus) Iris (Iris) Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium caeruleum) Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina) Larkspur (Delphinium elatum) Lavender-cotton (Santolina) Loosestrife (Lysimachia salicaria) Lupine (Lupinus) Meadow-Rue (Thalictrum) Meadowsage (Salvia) Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) Monkshood (Aconitum carnichaelii) Peony (Paeonia officianalis) Poppy (Papaver) Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea Purple Rock-cress (Aubretia deltoidea) Red Hot Poker or Torch lily ( Kniphofia) Rock-Cress (Arabis caucasica) Rose Mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos) Russian Sage (Perovskia x hybrida) Scabious (Scabiosa) Snakeroot (Cimicifuga) Sneezeweed ( Helenium autumnale) Soapwort (Saponaria) Speedwell (Veronica) Sundrops (Oenethera) Valerian (Centranthus) Wormwood (Artemisia schmidtiana) Yarrow (Achillea)

Deer Resistant Groundcovers: Barrenwort (Epimedium grandiflorum) Bearberry (Arctostaphyllos uva-ursi) Bergenia (Bergenia) Bugle Weed (Ajuga reptans) Dead Nettle (Lamium maculatum) Ferns (ferns) Ginger (Asarum) Hens-and Chicks (Sempervirens tectorum) Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla) Lavender-Cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus) Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis) Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis) Periwinkle or Myrtle (Vinca Minor or major) Snow-in-Summer (Cerastium) Sweet Woodruff (Galium) Deer Resistant Vines: Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) Fiveleaf Akebia (Akebia quinata) Fox Grape Vine (Vitis labrusca) Goldflame Honeysuckle (Lonicera x heckrottii) Japanese Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) Deer Resistant Annuals: Lobelia (Lobelia erinus) Moonflower (Ipomoea alba) Nassaturtium (Tropaeolum majus) Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus) Zinnias Deer Resistant Bulbs: Autumn Crocus (Colchicum) Common Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) Crown Imperial (Fritilaria imperialis) Giant Ornamental Onion (Allium giganteum) Glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa) Narcissus, Daffodils, and Jonquils (Narcissus) Siberian Squill (Scilla Siberica) Snowflake (Leucojum) Striped Squill (Puschinia) Winter Aconite (Eranthus)

Create an Enchanting Entrance

     Entry- a defined point of entrance, place of entrance, vestibule, passage, door or gate.

 

 

     An entry to a home is often a visitor’s first impression of your home and family.  It becomes a personal invitation to everything that lies beyond. This is the place where people move from the street to your private world, your home.  The entry is a symbolic sign of welcome. Some people are more open with their welcome, creating a standing offer that says, “My door is always open to friends and visitors”.

 

 

The porch sets the mood and style of your home and the manner of the people who live there.  The porch can inspire passing neighbors to stop and chat or become a quiet outdoor niche where family members can lounge with a good book or view the sunsets.  The front porch is a house’s public face.

 

 

 

The entrance can augment the property value and many realtors encourage homeowners to enhance their entrance when they want to sell their home.  The allure of an entry is an important point of transition. Beautifully enhanced it will draw or charm you into longing to see more.

 

 

Many of us are compelled to embellish the entry, well before the porch or front door.  This creates your own version of a red carpet welcome.

 

A few signature elements announce “enter here” giving no mistake as to where you want visitors to enter.  Planters, pathways, gates and shrubs give directional guides. A pair of large shrubs at the beginning of a walkway tells the visitor at a glance “this is the way”. This is especially important when the house’s architect doesn’t make a clear statement as to where to enter.   A clear defined entry is appreciated by everyone.

 

Planters, either attached to walls, hanging from beams or railings or simply placed on the porch or somewhere along the approach are the easiest of all elements to enhance an entrance.  Planters billowing with blooms can be very striking to blend or contrast with the front door or architecture.  Other elements that are beautiful on the porch are rocking chairs, benches, statuary, bistro sets, and backer’s racks (decked out with collections or seasonal decorations) and hanging wall art, mirrors or clocks.  Accessories are what turn a porch into an outdoor living room.  Have fun and enchant your entrance!

 

Celebrating the 4th of July!

We all know that family traditions evolve over time, but its fun to glean and gather ideas from others to add to our own traditions. 

Its just plain fun to throw a party now and then!  And our neighbor, Jean, knows just how to do it!  I got the date mixed up and knocked at her door a day early. Oh my, I felt a bit foolish to have come on the wrong day but so glad I got a glimpse of her preparations so I could come back the next day bearing my camera. Her front door was so welcoming and festive and un-mistakenly patriotic.  All of her decorations radiated warmth and friendliness.  

 

There is nothing like fresh blooming plants to make a lovely statement.  Notice Jean’s old trunk container.  

Hat boxes, baskets, jars and planters of every size and style are re-cycled through the year to make the current holiday extraordinary.  

  Patio table decorated with flags & lantern.

The entry table held a basket with a gift for each guest.  These were New England poppers, hand made inexpensively by Tanja .  The treat inside was not only taffy, but the poppers were filled  with such things as a paper crown and a joke inside each!  

 

The tables were festively arranged with paper, glass, tin and plastic dishware, all combined artfully and inexpensively.  Paper drink umbrellas and pinwheels were made from paper patterns that you can print out from  Martha Stewart Clipart .  Making your own decorations will give you a great feeling of accomplishment.

 

Red & white tablecloth below is really a quilt used as a cover.

 

Jean demonstrates pinwheel that she printed off and made from the Martha Stewart link above.

Jean got lots of friends involved with the preparation of the food.  Each food presentation was very beautiful as well as tasty.  Getting others involved and sharing the cooking and food preparation make the hard part of a party easy. See all of the recipes below.  

Using pottery batter bowls, glass candy jars, baskets, lanterns and even a little red wagon to hold red white and blue candies, were charming and creative.  We all went home with our heads full of inspiration and our tummies full of yummy foods, thanks to all who participated. 

 

Country decor includes patriotic pillows with red, white & blue.

Scrapbook paper simply strung on a piece of string to make this garland.

Invitations were decorated popsicle sticks that were put in an envelope loose and then the recipient put together the puzzle.

Luminary sacks were lit to decorate the railing.

 

Fabric buntings-eased onto a rod.

Cute “chalkboard” made out of recycled cupboard front.

 

Red, White and Blue Star Tarts

Makes 4 tarts

 

½ (15 ounce) package refrigerated pie crust

2 (3 ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1 (8 ounce) package frozen non-dairy whipped topping, thawed

1 tsp vanilla extract

1/3 cup confectioners sugar

4 to 6 fresh strawberries, slices

12 fresh blueberries

 

Preheat oven to 450.  On a lightly floured surface, unroll crust.  Using a 4 ½ inch round cutter, cut 4 circles from pie crust.  Line 4 (4 inch) tart pans with prepared crusts; prick bottom of crusts with a fork.  Place on a baking sheet.

 

Bake for 7 to 8 minutes, or until golden brown.  Cool on wire racks for 5 minutes; remove from pans and cool completely.

 

In a medium bowl, combine cream cheese, whipped topping and vanilla extract.  Beat at medium speed with an electric mixer until creamy.  Add confectioners sugar, beating until combined.  Spoon cream cheese mixture into prepared crusts.  Top with strawberries and blueberries in a decorative star pattern.

 

Watermelon Salad

Makes 4 servings

 

4 cups (1/2 inch cubes) seedless watermelon

1 cup chopped cucumber

1 cup finely chopped kalamata olives

1 (3/4 ounce) package fresh basil, torn

2 tbsp fresh lime juice

1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

1 tbsp minced shallot

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp black pepper

½ cup extra-light olive oil

 

In a large bowl, combine watermelon, cucumber, olives and torn basil.

 

In a small bowl, combine lime juice, lemon juice, shallot, salt and pepper; let stand for 5 minutes.  Slowly whisk in olive oil until combines.  Pour over watermelon mixture and toss gently to coat.  Cover and chill at least 2 hours.

 

Watermelon Slush

Makes 4 servings

 

4 cups (1 inch cubes) seedless watermelon, frozen

1 ½ cups hulled and quartered strawberries, frozen

3 tbsp fresh lime juice

2 tbsp simple syrup (recipe follows)

1/8 tsp salt

 

In the container of an electric blender, combine watermelon, strawberries, lime juice, syrup and salt.  Process for 30 seconds or until mixture is smooth.  Serve immediately.

 

Simple Syrup

Makes about 1 ½ cups

 

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

In a small saucepan, bring water and sugar to a boil, stirring occasionally.  Remove from heat; cool.  Chill at least 4 hours.

 

Blackberry Cobbler

Makes 12 servings

 

3 (16 ounce) packages frozen blackberries, thawed

1 cup sugar

¼ cup all-purpose flour

1 (24 count) package Mary B’s frozen bite-sized butter milk tea biscuits

1 tbsp butter, melted

1 tbsp sugar

¼ tsp ground cinnamon

 

Preheat oven to 350.  In a large bowl, combine blackberries, 1 cup sugar and flour.  Spoon into a 13 x 9 baking dish.

 

Arrange biscuits on top of fruit layer, pressing down gently.  Brush biscuits with melted butter.  In a small bowl, combine 1 tbsp sugar and cinnamon.  Sprinkle evenly over biscuits.

 

Bake for 40 minutes or until hot and bubbly.

 

Chocolate Peanut Butter Pudding Pops

Makes 8 to 12 servings

 

1 (3.9 ounce) package chocolate fudge instant pudding mix

2 ½ cups milk

1/3 cup creamy peanut butter

 

In a large bowl, whisk pudding mix and milk together until thickened.

 

In a microwave safe bowl, heat peanut butter in microwave on medium for 30 seconds or until slightly warm.  Stir well.  Add peanut butter to pudding, stirring well to combine.

 

Fill ice-pop molds with pudding mixture.  Freeze for at least 4 hours or overnight.  To remove pops from molds, follow manufacturer’s instructions.

 

Orange Creamsicles

Makes 8 to 12 servings

 

1 cup vanilla flavored yogurt

½ cup frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed

¼ cup water

1/8 tsp ground ginger

 

In a medium bowl, combine yogurt, orange juice, water and ginger, stirring well.  Fill ice pop molds with yogurt mixture.  Freeze for at least 4 hours or overnight.  To remove pops from molds, follow manufacturer’s instructions.

 

Pina-Colada Pops

Makes 8 to 12 servings

 

2 cups pineapple juice

2/3 cup cream of coconut (such as Coco Lopez)*

 

In a medium bowl, combine juice and cream of coconut, stirring well.  Fill ice pop molds with mixture.  Freeze for at least 4 hours or overnight.  To remove pops from molds, follow manufacturer’s instructions.

 

 **Look for cans of cream of coconut in the mixed-drink section of your local grocery store.  These pops are nonalcoholic.

 

Lemon and Lime Icebox Parfaits

Makes 6 to 8 servings

 

1 (16 ounce) purchased angel food cake

2 (10 ounce) jars Dickinson’s Lemon Curd

2 (10 ounce) jars Dickinson’s Lime Curd

1 (8 ounce) container frozen whipped topping, thawed

Garnish: lemon gumdrops

 

Using a serrated knife, slice cake horizontally into thirds, trimming any browned edges from cake.  Using round cutters, cut cake rounds to fit desired glass.  Layer cake, curds and whipped topping; repeat as desired.  Place remaining whipped topping into a pastry bag fitted with a star tip.  Pipe a rosette onto each parfait.  Garnish with lemon gumdrops, if desired.  You can made ahead and refrigerate.

 

Variations include: Using a white cake, adding coconut or nuts to the top, drizzling lemon liqueur over the cake or replacing the curd with fresh berries.

Flag Waving Cookies (shown above)

Makes 15 cookies

 

1 cup unsalted butter, softened

1 cup sugar

1 cup confectioners sugar

1 large egg

1 tsp vanilla extract

2 ½ cups all-purpose flour

1 tsp salt

1 tsp baking powder

15 craft sticks

1 (16 ounce) container vanilla icing

garnish: assorted liquid food coloring, gel icing and assorted cookie sprinkles

 

Spray a baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray; set aside.

 

In a large bowl, beat butter at medium speed with an electric mixer until creamy  Add sugar and confectioners sugar, beating until smooth.  Add egg and vanilla, beating to combine.

 

In a small bowl, sift together flour, salt and baking powder.  Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, beating at low speed until smooth.

 

Divide dough into 2 balls, wrap each one in plastic wrap and refrigerate 1 hour.

 

Preheat oven to 350.

 

On a lightly floured surface, roll dough to ¼ inch thickness.  Using assorted 3” cutters, cut out cookies and place 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheet.  Repeat with remaining dough.  Gently press a craft stick into the bottom third of each cooked.  Chill cookies for 15 minutes before baking.

 

Bake cookies for 10 minutes or until edges are lightly browned.  Cool on pan for 2 minutes; remove to wire racks and cool completely.

 

Dye vanilla icing with desired liquid food colors.  Spread icing to ¼ inch from edges of cookies.  Decorate cookies with gel icing and sprinkles if desired.