Revamp, Redecorate or Renovate?

Maybe it’s just the “After Christmas Blaas”,  but suddenly you walk into your living room and you feel deflated, bored or maybe even a little depressed? 

Your home should be an uplifting place that reinvigorates you.  Maybe it’s time to revamp, redecorate or renovate.  Your budget probably defines what you should do to your room or home.  If you can revamp a room the cost will be minimal.  If you renovate, you should consult with a designer, architect or construction contractor.  Maybe the middle of the road is to redecorate.

The following tips might do the job for you- inexpensively.  But for sure these tips will help you create a new look that will make you smile!

Undecorate First:  Take down all of your holiday decorations, remove knickknacks and tschoskes, photos and artwork, plants and lamps- even throws and pillows have to go. (you may bring back some items, so don’t throw them too far)

Leave only the anchor pieces- sofa, tables and big shelves, pianos and such. You may, however trade furniture pieces with another room.) Your goal is to start with an empty box, a blank slate, tabula rasa.  Now you can create your work of art with stunning success -one room at a time!

Re Arrange the Furniture:  If your sofas are flanking the fireplace, maybe you’d like to change the focal point and look out the window?  Or if your focal point is the TV, maybe it’s time to deemphasize that and re arrange so your room will work as multi functional- a place to check your email or a place for the kids to do homework? Whatever it is that you need to change,  the living room needs to look inviting, less formal and generally updated.

New Art Work:  Replace dated family photos with new images. Reflect on the current season, the approaching season, or a new mood that you are feeling. Try a new theme with artwork, spice things up with a new accent color. You might try your hand at oil or acrylic painting on canvas- try an abstract with bright splashy colors. Go a brand new direction  – its risky but what are you out? If you are not ready to replace old artwork or photos, try a new arrangement on your wall or place the collection on a different wall.

 

 

New Lighting:   Many overlook the aspect of lighting in the home.  We often think of the functional feature of lighting rather than the aesthetics or décor for a room.  To make a dramatic change in a room, get new lamps.  Be brave, change your style with a pair of  new table lamps or perhaps a buffet lamp on the sofa table. Try them in different locations. You may want to add a light to shine on some artwork or back-light your book shelves or other furniture.  Light makes a great difference.

 

Add Storage:  Trays on tables, placemats under lamps or trays, baskets for remotes or magazines, a chest instead of coffee table, small desk or perhaps a console or up right chest.

Make it a "Designer" Christmas Tree!

You know the designer in you would like a change in your Christmas tree this year! Why not incorporate your favorite collected ornaments into a fresh new look? Use what you have and add a zing or bling or two.

What is a “Designer Tree”, anyway?

A coordinated color scheme, oversized ornaments, exaggerated tree toppers and “much is more” are the secrets to designer trees. Keep reading for more precise details on each of these elements.

Things You’ll Need:

A 7 to 7 1/2 foot tree- fresh or everlasting

Lights 450 to thousands! 3 strands of 150, 25 sets of 70

Extension cord

Sturdy step ladder

Plug-in strip with off/on switch

Ornament hooks and/or thin gauge wire

Ornaments- old and new

Solid color glass balls in 3 sizes

Silk flowers, leaves, sprays, branches, glittered, metallic, beaded

Wired ribbon, rolls of sinamay, mesh, beads, pearls or fabric yardage

Tree skirt

1. Choosing a Tree: If using a fresh tree, make it the tallest one you can for your ceiling height, but not too bushy. Short needled trees are easier to decorate, such as Fraser or Noble Fir. Remember to supply the tree with a good reservoir of water. To prolong the life of the tree, you can spray it with a concoction of 1 qt water, 1/2C light corn syrup and 1 tsp of liquid bleach.

If using an everlasting, pre-lit tree- Bring it out, check the lights, fluff up the branches and you are ready to begin decorating. If you need a new tree, check out the very real looking new models that have silk needles inside and PVC needles on the tips of the branches.

If you need to freshen an old tree, consider spray-on- flock or spray paint such as a soft gold or silver color.

2. Lighting the Tree: If you string the lights, do it without anyone else in the room. If someone else strings the lights, put on some lovely Christmas music and leave the room. Only check back if you are bearing refreshments for your “Light-Stringer”. You may hear some words you don’t want to hear. This is the part of decorating a tree that everyone hates!

Here are the directions for lighting a tree: Check the light strand before un- packing the lights. I like to keep them plugged in as I string them, making sure that they stay lit. Sometimes it is easier to wind the strand around your hand and use your hand to go around each limb or branch. Start at the base of the tree. Wind the strand of lights around the trunk, then around and along each limb as you move upward. Wrap the lights around the small limbs as well as the large ones and then work your way back to the trunk. Continue this process until you have covered the entire tree. Remember to only plug 3 strands of 100 bulbs or 6 of 50’s, together. Use a multi-plug adaptor somewhere in the middle of the tree trunk to accommodate the strands.

3. Choosing a Theme: If you are just starting out or want your tree to compliment your home’s décor, you’ll find that if you start with a specific color scheme, all of your decorating decisions will be easier.

Focus on the colors you have in your home year ‘round and then consider complimentary colors that bring out the seasonal feelings. Do you have a luscious fabric on sofa, drapes or table scarf? You might want to use all of the jewel tones and bring out your luminous beaded fruits. Do you love the rustic earthy tones? Greens, browns and gold’s go on forever and ever. It’s easy to add many of the red shades which compliment the earth tones so nicely.

You may have happy memories from Christmas Past that you’d like to enhance. If you loved the baking and cooking of this cheerful season- think of candy canes and cupcakes- choose a color scheme that brings all of those colors to mind.

Do you have a sentimental collectible Christmas decoration? Do you have some wrapping paper that you love…that could give you a theme.

Stop in at Tuscan Garden Works and look over our many tree themes and take home a hard copy of one that you like.

4. Decorating the Tree: This is the fun part. Knowing your Color palette and theme, spread out all of your bulbs and ornaments and any theme pieces you might want to use such as trains, fairies, ribbons, fabrics etc.

Your ribbons, garlands and fabrics are the first to go on after the tree is all lighted up. The ribbon gives a nice flow of movement in and around the tree. It should add color and texture to the over all design. Start the ribbon (or garland) at the top of the tree, poking it in and around the branches at an angle. Weave it in and out, moving down the tree. Don’t just wrap the tree…make the ribbon flow, soft and natural. In some areas poof the ribbon, other areas twist it. You may want to cut the ribbon into 3 yard lengths for easier handling. You don’t have to put it on the back if the tree is up against a wall.

Add the foliage- branches, flower bunches, sprays, glittery sprigs, poking them in adding color and texture. Use them sparingly and just have their tips pop out.

Now it is time for the Main Attraction, the ornaments and bulbs. Place large bulbs 6” to 8” in the center of the tree for radiating color. The large size gives a nice variation to the smaller ornaments on the ends of the branches. So tuck the larger sizes in a bit. Also, place ornaments where they will be highlighted by the lights so give a glow and show off colors. Place some ornaments half way along the branches. Always step back and make sure you are placing the ornaments in a way that the tree looks balanced.

Small limbs will hold smaller ornaments and the longer branches at the bottom of the tree will hold the larger heavier ornaments. Check often to find gaps that need an ornament or two. Other items might be necessary to pull off your theme, such as, baskets, pinecones, wreaths, fish, or little red wagons…who knows, your imagination is the limiting factor.


5. Add the Crowning Glory: Every traditional tree is topped with a star or an angel. If you have a family heirloom, use it even if it doesn’t match your theme. Traditions are an important part of Christmas and what more suitable place than on the tip of your Christmas tree? Be sure to wire it securely to the top of the tree.

If you would rather, make a topper more outrageous- accentuate with long feathers, a cluster of ornaments or bulbs, stars on wire, glitter sticks or netting and ribbon. Your choice is unlimited. Have fun with this! The rule here is “More is Better!”

6. The Tree Skirt: If you have a skirt that works with your theme or color scheme use it. If not, think outside of the box. Shower curtains, quilts, fur blanket, a length of yardage, any of these can be tucked in under your tree covering the stand and cords.

7. The Finishing Touch: Remember to wrap your gifts in coordinating wrapping paper to match the colors on your tree.

8. Move on to decorate the rest of the house – You can add small trees in any or all other rooms. Changing themes or color schemes to match each room. Or you can continue the same scheme throughout the house. Use Candles, pillows, vases with ornaments and again include the wrapping paper.

9. Don’t forget the Entry, both inside and out. This sends the statement that your friends and neighbors are “Welcome”.

Put it All Together, Expertly!

There is something about the way the sun hits the house at a slant that makes you want to come inside and decorate the house. Is it the crisp air or the way the nights come on faster, that lets you know it’s that time of year again? We, here at Tuscan Garden Works are anxious to help you with the task of transforming your home for the holidays. We can help you along the way to be creative, inspired or just plain excited or we can do it for you. Read on for some quick design rules to help you be successful easily.

Whether you choose to deck your halls, a porch or a table, you’ll want to create a beautiful, interesting and exciting vignette or floral arrangement. Your success will depend on your abiding by a rule or two. Follow these simple design rules for placement of pieces that make a well balanced whole. For easy remembering, I usually call the rules: “Thriller”, “Filler” and “Spiller” but for this season I’ll refer to them as “Bones”, “Tendons” and “Flesh”!

Consider, as you are about to jazz up your front porch with a Halloween vignette or create a harvest table piece, the following design rules. They work for most any creation. You need “bones”, “tendons” and “flesh” - these terms seem appropriate for the up- coming season!

1. The “bones” will be your largest, most colorful item, the piece that stands out the most, creating a focal point. You may have more than one focal point in an arrangement.

2. The “tendons” will be the additives that support your focal point - a secondary item, maybe a pair of items that connects to the focal point. "Tendons" also connect the arrangement to the base. The base is the table it sits on, the mantel or porch or where ever it is placed. For a smaller arrangement, the base might be the planter or vase it is arranged in. This could be as simple as scattered leaves, or straw or it could be a trailing floral piece.

3. The “flesh” will be the final touches, the parts that fill in but don’t detract from the main focal point, perhaps a softer color, a less busy texture, or a smaller supporting piece or two.

Follow these design rules and you’ll produce a porch vignette so perfect, it’s scary!

Word of Warning: If you gather your own floral and grasses, leaves or pods, don’t keep them in the house very long or you’ll have a real mess to clean up. The fine seed heads can spill all over the place! They get into heater ducts, in your food and carpets. Does that sound like I’ve been there, done that? Using fresh fruit is really lovely, until the fruit flies attack it. They take about one day to multiply into hundreds!

Most all natural twigs, grasses and leaves and fruit have a permanent botanical counterpart that will be “everlasting”!

Check out our beautiful foliages, branches and berries.

Many are 50%-70% off.

Decorating Your Christmas Tree

Stop into Tuscan Garden Works' showroom and pick up a free printed copy of a themed Christmas tree...with pizzazz! We have over 20 styles of Christmas tree ideas. You can see how to re-arrange your existing decorations, add a few new blings, or just add filler floral material and make a powerful decorator statement, a real piece of art!

Holiday Recipe Idea:

A delightfully different dessert for the Holiday times!

PUMPKIN CAKE

1box yellow cake mix
¾ cup (1 ½ stick of butter)
3 eggs
¾ cup brown sugar
¼ cup flour
2 tsp. cinnamon
1 large can of canned pumpkin
2/3 cup (small can) evaporated milk
2 ½ tsp. pumpkin spice
Dash (small) salt, ground cloves, ginger & nutmeg.

Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees
Grease a 13 x 9 cake pan

We will need 3 bowls: SMALL, MEDIUM & LARGE

In the MEDIUM bowl will be the crust: Mix the yellow cake mix with 1 egg (slightly beaten), ½ cup (1stick) melted and cooled butter. With a spoon, press it into the cake pan, including up the sides. (Set aside 1 cup of cake mix for the small bowl!)

In the SMALL bowl will be the topping: Take 1 cup of dry cake mix, ¼ cup of flour, ¼ cup of brown sugar, 1 tsp. of cinnamon and ¼ cup (1/2 stick) of melted and cooled butter. Mix all together and refrigerate until needed.

In the LARGE bowl will be filling: Take 1 large can of canned pumpkin, ½ cup of brown sugar, 2 eggs, 2/3 cup of evaporated milk, 1 tsp. cinnamon, 2 ½ tsp. pumpkin spice and a small dash each of salt, ground cloves, ginger & nutmeg. Mix all very well and place into the crust lined pan. Sprinkle the topping over the filling. Bake 40-50 minutes or until knife inserted in middle comes out clean. Cool. Serve with whipped cream. Refrigerate left-overs…if any!

The Deer Buffet

I’m often asked, “What can I do about keeping the deer away from my garden?” Nothing is more upsetting to the gardener or landscaper than to spend days designing and planting a beautiful garden or landscape, only to have it eaten by deer.

My short answer is: “Using plants that deer don’t like in the landscape may prove to be the most effective and economical way to deter deer. Good planning and a little patience will help deer-proof your landscape and garden. The most logical method of creating the deer-proof garden is to mimic nature.”

Gaillardia Mesa Yellow- many fuzzy leaf plants are unappetizing to deer.

Deer will avoid all of the varieties of Antirrhinum majus – shown Snapdragon ‘Twinny Peach’

Mixed flower bed can contain a few plants that deer may browse but they will avoid them when surrounded by untasty blooms.

The Deer Facts by Kathy Lillywhite

Gardening in deer country is not impossible but there are some things one should know. The mule deer (Odocoileus heinous) with their large fuzzy ears and bright dark eyes, need 5 to 10 pounds of food per day. One of the worst damaging thing they do to the garden is called browsing.

The next worst thing is rutting. This is when a buck uses his antlers to rub the bark off your favorite newly planted tree.

We will discuss deer browsing first.

Browsing is a pattern of feeding in which the deer, bucks, does and fawns (the little spotted cute ones) select tender shoots, blossoms, twigs, leaves off plants, trees and shrubs. Their taste can change and browsing your garden depends primarily on the season, the deer’s nutritional needs and abundance or lack of abundance of their favorite foods. When preferred foods are scarce, deer will eat just about anything.

There are various ways to protect a garden from deer browsing but most are temporary. 

This beautiful flower bed has an assortment of flowers that deer don’t like so Mariam can keep it beautiful and the deer just walk by.

1. Chemical and organic repellents, homemade or purchased that have varying degrees of effectiveness. Most are odorous with the use of rotten egg smell that deer don’t like but raccoons love. I’ve tried most of them and the stinkier (sic) the better. “Liquid Fence”, “Shake-Away”,(powdered coyote urine). I’ve even made the haul to Hogle zoo and lugged a gunny sack of stinky mountain lion dung back home. (I told you I’ve tried everything!) Some of these repellents claim you can go 3 or 4 weeks between applications.

Hide the tasty ones among the less savory. Pictured tall sweet Phlox

Other repellents are based on a very bad taste they call bitrex. “Repelex” comes in spray-on variety as well as tablets that can be planted with your shrubs or plants. The taste remains in the soil for years—you can taste “bitter” as you dig around. I have had the most success with using the pellets and spray-on combined. One year (‘m gloating now) I actually had tulips blooming, right out along the street. Repelex and other effective ones, such as “Deer Guard”, contain a latex-based spreader-sticker which stays on through many rain and irrigation dowses. All spray-on repellents must be re-applied to new growth. That means every few days or at least weekly. I have tried most of the spray-ons such as, ”Deer Out”, “Not Tonight Deer”, “Hinder” (This one is promoted to be ok for vegetables and fruit and inoffensive to humans! I don’t know about the taste of the fruit…you’ll have to ask the deer!),

There are various other remedies such as soap, human hair, loaded baby diapers, radios playing talk stations. Anything that suggests humans are present are not effective because the deer are not afraid of man, woman or child any more.

This garden has systemic repelex to keep deer off Blanche’s coleus.

2. There are various electronic sound devices and water-motion sensors, that may be costly (depends on how many plants they save and how many silk blouses they ruin) but can be effective. I have used the Scarecrow- battery powered, motion sensor, blasting the deer with water. The cost if you order on line has come down from $129 to $69.

I found that the Scarecrow repellent was good when all systems were in place. The unit has to be hooked up to a garden hose. Batteries must be fresh and the unit must be adjusted in the correct direction. If you forget that it’s on, you or your guests may get a good soaking. I got tired of getting “it” so I eventually just turned the water off and rolled up the garden hose.

There are other electronic devices that I have not tried. Some attract the deer with scents and then zaps them with electronic volts. (400v) which isn’t much but the manufacturers claim they work. “Herd” is one that runs on 2AA batteries that lasts 1 year. Sells for $69.95. There are others, “Scare Wars” and “Gardener Ultrasonic” that uses radio and computer technology and LP gas cannons. The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension issued a warning that ultrasonic sound waves that animals hear are the same as what humans hear…so beware that they may not be effective.

3. Physical barriers such as the seven foot high fence (along with a big dog!) provides the best means of protection. However, deer can squeeze through a small break and have been known to crawl under fences as well. Fences are not always the answer as they are highly visible and can detract from the aesthetic beauty of the property. They can also be the perfect solution.

I have also used fish line, bird netting, and various booby traps. Deer do not see well and things that get their feet tangled can frustrate them…somewhat. I had some rose bushes encircled with several metal edging pieces and one night I heard the worst commotion. A deer had gotten his hoof caught in the metal, fallen down and couldn’t get the metal piece off. After thrashing around, destroying my rose garden, I went to see if I could help. He leaped down the hill and the metal piece went flying.

I hate to admit but I’ve thrown knives, forks and serving pieces off the balcony trying to get them to go away, and once tried my son’s bow and arrow (couldn’t hit the broad side of a barn). And I’ve chased, yelled and screamed at them, they always return for Act II.

Also, feeding the deer, on the presumption that they’ll act mannerly and eat only what is put out for them does not work. They will browse all the way to the feed bin and back again! As well, deer can not read signs that say “for birds only”.

 

4. Plant plants that don’t attract the deer and they don’t particularly like. Again, if deer are hungry enough there isn’t much they won’t eat.

Using plants that deer don’t like in the landscape may prove to be the most effective and economical way to deter deer. Good planning and a little patience will help deer-proof your landscape and garden. The most logical method of creating the deer-proof garden is to mimic nature. Observe the native plants that deer leave alone and draw from that knowledge. Identify other members of that immune plant family and those plants will usually prove to be resistant as well. (Such as beard tongue growing in the wild belongs to the genus digitalis.) Toxicity is perhaps one of the most common reasons for deer to leave a particular plant alone. The Ranunculus is another good example of a plant that is poisonous to deer and other grazing animals.

Deer will avoid poisonous plants like foxglove and ranunculus

There are about 400 species of annuals and biennials that are listed as deer resistant. Some species that you’ll recognize are: buttercup, bachelor’s buttons, crowfoot and spearwort and the bulb spring flowering ranunculus. Daffodils and all of the narcissus family members are poisonous to deer as well. You will see many varieties of Black eyed Susans, growing in the wilds- untouched by deer. I’ve always enjoyed a stand or two of Rudbekia ‘Goldsturm’ in my garden, these are real work horses and are as cheerful as the sunflower.

Rudbekia ‘Golsturm’

The echinacea otherwise known as cone flower, has so many new varieties- they are fun and worry free. Try some of the new exotics. This beauty is fast becoming one of my favorite flowers.

 

Echinacea ‘Double Delight’

The next worse thing to browsing is deer rutting. A buck uses his antlers to rub the bark off the tree trunk. I lost a beautiful 4 year old magnolia tree to this rubbing. The tree could have survived the first rubbing but the buck came back to damage the other side! As we all know, young trees have very thin bark that offers no protection from such damage. The cambium (the bright green layer under the bark) is only a cell or two thick. The cambium provides the tree with a vascular system. A girdled tree often dies because it can’t transport water and nutrients.

A damaged tree from a rutting buck.

A buck loves to rub his antlers on young, flexible trees to remove the velvet that covers them. Not because the drying velvet is itchy; antlers have no nerve endings. Bucks rub their antlers on trees to attract receptive does and to demarcate territory warning other bucks to stay away. They also simulate battle with other bucks on these trees, perhaps to strengthen their neck muscles in preparation for the real thing.

Picture taken in my own garden a few weeks ago

It is possible that a buck will come back to rub on your tree again. It’s important to protect it. You should surround the tree with a 6 foot barrier that will keep a determined deer away from the tree trunk. This can be made of rebar and wire mesh. Or you can purchase from Tuscan Garden Works- two halves of an obelisk style trellis that will hook together. These are very attractive and can be re-used for trellising roses or other climbing plants when you remove them from the tree. Spray-on repellents are not effective in controlling buck rubs.

Just a note on treatment of a tree that has been damaged by a buck: Don’t put a wound dressing or paint on the tree. Trees are capable of healing a surprising amount of damage on their own. You may want to do something for your tree- even a Band-Aid. But the best thing will be to only cut the shaggy bark away and let the tree will heal it’s self.

After loosing my magnolia tree and realizing that a brazen buck had staked out my garden as his area…I was livid! That’s when I purchased three of the Scarecrow motion sensors for the back and side yard.

Deer are creatures of habit, once a new feeding area is found to be to their liking, future damage is easily predictable. Deer have learned to adapt to the changes we have imported to their environment. They have lost their fear of “man” and have adjusted their feeding schedule to avoid us and our dogs.

Zinnia ‘zahara starlight’ one of the fuzzy flowers which deer resist.

Ornamental grasses and sedums are not favorites on the deer buffet.

Aromatic foliage is more often than not shunned by deer. Some plants that have pungent aromas are: basils, lavenders, thymes and yarrows (Achillea), monarda (bee balm), and artemisia. But If you classify the geranium and pelargonium as “smelly” plants, deer like them.

Fuzzy and prickly foliage is generally disagreeable to deer, unless they are very hungry. Lambs ear(Stachys byzantina), Rose Campion, Rudbeckia, Echinacea, and verbascum, hollies, barberry, Oregon grape and pines are examples of plants with fuzz and prickles that deer seem to leave along, unless very hungry. The new growth on roses is very succulent and deer love the buds and flowers but generally leave the old thorny stems alone.

I love the Zinnia. Deer don’t!

The following lists include plants that the deer generally leave alone. Sometimes they browse on these plants in winter or early spring but by mid-summer you can count on them to not be preferred as deer “buffet”.

Trees

Mature trees can withstand deer browsing, as it affects only the lower leaves and branches, but young trees and sapling are more accessible and easily harmed. Deer lack upper front incisor teeth, so they must rip branches off, leaving very ragged edges. They reach branches as high as six feet by standing on their hind legs. Cages can be constructed around individual trees and shrubs using chicken wire and rebar or have something beautiful custom made by Tuscan Garden Works!

 

Deer Resistant Trees: American Holly (Ilex opaca) American Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua) Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica) Birch, (Betula papyrifera, pendula) Bitternut Hickory (Carya cordiformis) Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacia) Chinese Chestnut (Castanea mollissima) Colorado Spruce (Picea pungens) Common Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) Corkscrew Willow (Salix matsudana) Dogwood (Cornus kousa) European Hornbeam, (Carpinus betulus) Golden Chain Tree (Laburnum anagroides Green Ash (Fraxiunus pennsylvanica) Hawthorn (Crataegus) Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtuse) Magnolia (magnolia) Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba) Northern Catalpa (Catalpa speciosa) Norway Spruce (Picea abies) Pine, Pitch, Mugo, Red, Scots (Pinus) Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum) Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)

Deer Resistant Shrubs: Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) Bush cherry (Prunus avium) Bush Cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa) Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii) Cotoneaster (catoneaster horizontalis) Deciduous Azaleas (Rhododendrom spp.) Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea) Forsythia (forsythia) Holly (Ilex aquifolium) Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii) Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) Oregon Grape Holly (Mahonia aquifolium) Russian-Olive (Eleagnus angustifolia) Spirea (Spiraea) Viburnum (Viburnum) Weigela (Weigela florida) Witchhazel (Hamamelis)

Deer Resistant Perennials: Adam’s Needle (Yucca filamentosa) Alyssum (Alyssum) Aster (aster) Astilbe (Astilbe) Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila) Basket of Gold (Aurinia saxatilis) Beebalm (Monarda didyma) Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia maxima) Campion (Lychnis coronaria) Catnip (Nepeta) Columbine (Aquilegia) Common Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) Coreopsis (Coreopsis) Dame’s Rocket (Hesperis) False Indigo (Baptisia) Boltonia (Boltonia) Dusty Miller (Centaurea cineraria) False Lupin (Thermopsis) Flax (Linum) Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia) Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis) Foxglove (Digitalis) Gaillardia (gaillardia) Goldenrod (Solidago hybrids) Hellebore (Helleborus) Iris (Iris) Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium caeruleum) Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina) Larkspur (Delphinium elatum) Lavender-cotton (Santolina) Loosestrife (Lysimachia salicaria) Lupine (Lupinus) Meadow-Rue (Thalictrum) Meadowsage (Salvia) Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) Monkshood (Aconitum carnichaelii) Peony (Paeonia officianalis) Poppy (Papaver) Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea Purple Rock-cress (Aubretia deltoidea) Red Hot Poker or Torch lily ( Kniphofia) Rock-Cress (Arabis caucasica) Rose Mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos) Russian Sage (Perovskia x hybrida) Scabious (Scabiosa) Snakeroot (Cimicifuga) Sneezeweed ( Helenium autumnale) Soapwort (Saponaria) Speedwell (Veronica) Sundrops (Oenethera) Valerian (Centranthus) Wormwood (Artemisia schmidtiana) Yarrow (Achillea)

Deer Resistant Groundcovers: Barrenwort (Epimedium grandiflorum) Bearberry (Arctostaphyllos uva-ursi) Bergenia (Bergenia) Bugle Weed (Ajuga reptans) Dead Nettle (Lamium maculatum) Ferns (ferns) Ginger (Asarum) Hens-and Chicks (Sempervirens tectorum) Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla) Lavender-Cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus) Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis) Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis) Periwinkle or Myrtle (Vinca Minor or major) Snow-in-Summer (Cerastium) Sweet Woodruff (Galium) Deer Resistant Vines: Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) Fiveleaf Akebia (Akebia quinata) Fox Grape Vine (Vitis labrusca) Goldflame Honeysuckle (Lonicera x heckrottii) Japanese Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) Deer Resistant Annuals: Lobelia (Lobelia erinus) Moonflower (Ipomoea alba) Nassaturtium (Tropaeolum majus) Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus) Zinnias Deer Resistant Bulbs: Autumn Crocus (Colchicum) Common Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) Crown Imperial (Fritilaria imperialis) Giant Ornamental Onion (Allium giganteum) Glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa) Narcissus, Daffodils, and Jonquils (Narcissus) Siberian Squill (Scilla Siberica) Snowflake (Leucojum) Striped Squill (Puschinia) Winter Aconite (Eranthus)

Create an Enchanting Entrance

     Entry- a defined point of entrance, place of entrance, vestibule, passage, door or gate.

 

 

     An entry to a home is often a visitor’s first impression of your home and family.  It becomes a personal invitation to everything that lies beyond. This is the place where people move from the street to your private world, your home.  The entry is a symbolic sign of welcome. Some people are more open with their welcome, creating a standing offer that says, “My door is always open to friends and visitors”.

 

 

The porch sets the mood and style of your home and the manner of the people who live there.  The porch can inspire passing neighbors to stop and chat or become a quiet outdoor niche where family members can lounge with a good book or view the sunsets.  The front porch is a house’s public face.

 

 

 

The entrance can augment the property value and many realtors encourage homeowners to enhance their entrance when they want to sell their home.  The allure of an entry is an important point of transition. Beautifully enhanced it will draw or charm you into longing to see more.

 

 

Many of us are compelled to embellish the entry, well before the porch or front door.  This creates your own version of a red carpet welcome.

 

A few signature elements announce “enter here” giving no mistake as to where you want visitors to enter.  Planters, pathways, gates and shrubs give directional guides. A pair of large shrubs at the beginning of a walkway tells the visitor at a glance “this is the way”. This is especially important when the house’s architect doesn’t make a clear statement as to where to enter.   A clear defined entry is appreciated by everyone.

 

Planters, either attached to walls, hanging from beams or railings or simply placed on the porch or somewhere along the approach are the easiest of all elements to enhance an entrance.  Planters billowing with blooms can be very striking to blend or contrast with the front door or architecture.  Other elements that are beautiful on the porch are rocking chairs, benches, statuary, bistro sets, and backer’s racks (decked out with collections or seasonal decorations) and hanging wall art, mirrors or clocks.  Accessories are what turn a porch into an outdoor living room.  Have fun and enchant your entrance!